TAXIS: Each neighbourhood has it's own taxi stand. They are accessible by phone around the clock. Black and yellow cabs usually sport an outdated meter, but don't worry. All drivers carry cards to show you what the correct fare is... as it corresponds to the meter. This is painful... but that's the way it is. The all-white taxis do not use meters. They run on pre-determined flat fees. You can book one of these all- whites for an entire day, or for a few hours, in which case you'll pay according to pre-specified charges.

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AUTORICKSHAWS: A convenient and cheap way to get around. Delhi has a slew of 'scooters' as they are called, and they're pretty much available everywhere. They run on an out dated meter as well, so be sure to check their conversion cards for the correct fare (add 90% after 9 pm). Avoid agreeing to a flat rate unless you're sure of the cost of the trip.

BUSES: Avoidable, both as a traveller and as a pedestrian.

DRIVERS: If you have hired a driver for the day, you need to provide for his lunch and/or dinner. The standard rate is Rs 40 per meal and a tip of around Rs 100 at the end of the day. If travelling as a group by bus then each of you must tip the attendant. Anywhere between Rs 10 and Rs 50.

BARGAINING: Street vendors expect bargaining. In shops, when buying in bulk, ask for a discount. Observe experienced Delhi shoppers and play it by ear. Shopkeepers usually oblige.

RETURNS AND EXCHANGES: Delhi shopkeepers are quite understanding. But remember to take your purchase receipt or bill.

PHONES: Carry a lot of Rs 1 coins for pay phones. Or look for booths with STD/ISD signs. Here you pay per the computer printout. Keep change handy.

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DRESS: Informal. Skimpily dressed women (no matter how normal by western standards) will be stared at. Wear informal, loose clothes during the day and you won't feel uncomfortable. Smart, casual clothes will do for eating out in the evening or visiting friends.

WINTER WEAR: If you are travelling to Delhi between December and February, remember to carry at least a few sweaters. It can get pretty cold, especially at night. Delhi homes are not centrally heated so you might be chilly indoors as well. You can also pack a few woollen shawls, jackets, gloves, scarves, socks and shoes. Conversely, it gets very, very hot in the summer. (Delhi is close to a desert.) In the summer, you'll need loose-fitting, cool summer clothes, perhaps a hat and definitely some sunglasses.

ETIQUETTE: Delhi people are informal, but in some homes you must take your shoes off before entering. A collection of footwear near the doorway is a good indicator of the kind of home you're entering. Footwear is not worn in places of worship.

INVITATIONS: It is fashionable to be late in Delhi, but punctuality is expected for business dinners and weddings. Wine (which is very expensive) is not commonly offered at parties. Most people drink whisky, vodka and other hard liquor watered down with soda, water or beer, until dinner is served. That's usually around midnight. It's a good idea to grab a bite before you go. Dinner also signals the end of the party, so it isn't impolite to eat and run.

EATING OUT: Bars close at 11:00 pm (last orders - 10:45 pm). Most restaurants stay open till midnight. But if you are hungry early in the morning, try one of the 24-hr coffee shops in the bigger hotels for western food and at the restaurants at Pandara Road for North Indian cuisine. These are open till around 3 am.

HEALTH: Drink mineral water or aerated drinks. Toilet paper may not always be available, so carry a roll.

BEGGARS: Instead of giving them money, give them edibles like cookies, bananas or sweets.

CRIME: Statistically, Delhi has the country's highest crime rate. But a little care and agility on your part will ensure an event free trip. Be sensible. Don't flash wads of notes. Leave valuables and passports in the hotel safe. If in doubt, check your routes in advance.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS:

PASSPORT, VISACitizens of all countries need to have a valid passport and an entry, transit or tourist visa obtained from the Indian Mission in their country. Tourist visa is normally valid for 120 days. Visa extensions can be got by applying to the Ministry of Home Affairs, Lok Nayak Bhavan, Khan Market, Ph: 4693334, 4612543, 4617649. The letter should then be handed over at the Foreigners Regional Registration Office at Hans Bhavan, Tilak Bridge, near ITO, Ph: 3319489 / 8179. It is open from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm and 2 pm to 4 pm. (It is closed on weekends & national holidays). Those wishing to visit a neighbouring country like Sri Lanka or Nepal, and then coming back to India, should obtain a double/multiple entry visa.

REGISTRATIONAll foreigners are required to get themselves registered with the Foreigners Regional Registration Office (FRRO) which is situated in Hans Bhavan, Tilak Road, near the Income Tax Office (ITO). The building is very close to India Gate.

INCOME-TAX CLEARANCEIf the stay exceeds 120 days, an income-tax clearance certificate, issued by the Foreign Indraprastha Estate, Ph: 3317826, will be required.

HEALTH REGULATIONSYellow fever inoculation certificate is compulsory for those who have travelled across Africa, or Papua New Guinea in the last six days. The certificate becomes valid 10 days after the innoculation. No immunisation against small pox or cholera is required. Those without the yellow certificate are liable to be quarantined for up to six days. Inoculation Centres for yellow fever: Palam Airport on Tue. & Thur. between 2 pm-4 pm, Ph: 5653408. Dr. Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital on Wed. & Sat. between 11 am-12 noon, Ph: 3365525 and at the International Inoculations Centre, Town Hall, Parliament Street.

CUSTOMS CLEARANCEThose without any dutiable goods or high value articles or foreign exchange more than US$ 2500 or unaccompanied baggage which need to be declared, can walk through the Green channel. All others need to pass through the Red Channel. Goods up to Rs. 750 (Rs. 6000 for persons of Indian origin) for personal use or as gifts, like 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 gms. tobacco and liquor up to 32 oz(0,95) litres, are exempt from duty. Other things include cameras with five rolls of films, some jewellery, a pair of binoculars, one portable musical instrument, a radio set, tape recorder, portable typewriter, one perambulator, and also professional equipment which has to be taken back.Other high value articles can be brought in only after giving an undertaking that they will be taken back. Bringing in of firearms, drugs and narcotics are not allowed. Beyond the free baggage limit, the duty rate is 52 per cent--50 per cent plus 2 per cent special duty. Those not entitled: Persons from Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar and China do not get any free allowances, while in the case of nationals of Sri- Lanka and the Maldives, it is Rs. 6000 if they stay for more than three days and Rs. 3000 if the stay is less. Tourist Baggage Form: On arrival, a TBRE(tourist baggage re-export form) is to be shown with the entered articles to Customs for verification at the time of departure. Landing certificate: It is required if you are expecting unaccompanied baggage as also for mishandled baggage. Bringing in currency: Any amount in the form of currency, travellers cheques and the like can be brought in and the same amount can be taken back. In case the amount exceeds US$ 10000 in the form of currency notes, travellers cheques or bank notes and / or currency notes alone of more than US$ 2500, they have to be declared on arrival on the Currency Declaration Form (CDF), duly attested by the Customs Officer. Indian Currency: No Indian currency can be brought in or taken out, and while remitting money to India the full address of the bank should be given. Money changing: The unit of currency is the rupee and all money should be changed with authorised money changers available at various places. You should insist on a receipt which will help in reconverting the money whenever you desire so. It is better to avoid touts who may offer higher sums than the prevailing value. Export Curbs: All articles brought in can be taken back. From India one can take back souvenirs worth Rs. 1,00,000 in value and more than that after getting permission from the Reserve Bank of India. Jewellery or precious stones of high value need an advance RBI permit as also appraisal by the Customs Appraiser at the airport in advance. Antiquities, art objects: Restrictions exist on art objects more than 100 years old. Any doubts should be got cleared from Director, Antiquities, Archaeological Survey of India, Janpath, Ph: 3017220, Export of wildlife items is prohibited and in some cases regulated. Foreign Travel Tax: Rs. 500 and only Rs. 150 for citizens of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Myanmar, Pakistan, the Maldives, Nepal and Sri Lanka-- payable at the time of departure.

ARRIVAL, LEAVING THE AIRPORTTransport of various sorts is available at the Indira Gandhi International Airport. These include autorickshaws, taxis and even buses most of which are operated by private operators. There is also a prepaid taxi service and it is advisable that this facility is made use of as it proves to be the most economical. Connaught Place is about 23 km. from the airport. For those who arrive by train, there are taxis and autorickshaws besides cycle rickshaws for leaving the station.Normally most of the indicators are written in Hindi, English, Punjabi and Urdu.

GETTING ACQUAINTEDDelhi is spread over an area of 1500 sq. kms., is 216 metres above sea level and has a population of around 10 million. One of the greatest assets, is that one can move around at one's chosen pace.

CLIMATESummers are very hot, though the humidity levels are not much as in Calcutta and Bombay. Temperatures in the summer months can touch 45 degrees Celsius with May and June being the hottest months. Rains are spread over a month from early July and humidity levels at this time can cause uneasiness. The winter months October-end to February-end are cold and dry and the minimum temperatures can go as low as 3 degrees Celsius in late December and January. Heavy woollens are ideal during this time and can give a sense of satisfaction and enjoyment. Weather bulletins and forecasts are given regularly over the television and in the newspapers and are normally accurate as they are based on satellite information.

TIME DIFFERENCEThe standard time for India is calculated from Allahabad and is common to all cities in the country. Indian Standard Time (IST) is 5 hours and 30 minutes ahead of London, 4 hours and 30 minutes ahead of Paris, about 10 hours and 30 minutes ahead New York, 3 hours and 30 minutes behind Tokyo and 4 hours and 30 minutes behind Sydney. Some newspapers give information on this also.

LANGUAGES SPOKENEnglish, Hindi, Punjabi and Urdu are most commonly spoken. In hotels and restaurants the staff speak English while the tourist guides are also well versed with the language. Indians being friendly can always help tourists who may not understand any other language than English.

TIPPINGTipping is common for porters in hotels as also the stewards and bearers and tourist guides, though it is not the practice with taxi and auto drivers and other means of transport within the city. The standard amount in hotels and restaurants is 10% of the total bill.

SMOKINGSmoking is banned in public places, public transport and government offices, inside cinema halls and theatres located in the state of Delhi. In several other places, boards prominently display the ban on smoking. Most hotels and restaurants have separate smoking zones.

PHOTOGRAPHYPhotography is not permitted at the airport, military installations and other places where such notices are put up.

BUYING LIQUORDelhi observes dry days on most nationals and even some local holidays and shops are closed on the 1st and 7th of every month. Various brands of imported liquor are now available in the market also through outlets run by the Delhi Tourism and Delhi Industrial Corporation. All big hotels serve liquor and so do several restaurants. Dry days are not applicable to hotels and restaurants.

FOODChoicest variety of all kinds of Indian food is available and several restaurants within hotels as also outside sell select food of different states. Most of the hotels also serve continental food. In fact the variety in food is unlimited and Delhi is among the best places in the country as far as picking and choosing food goes.